This is not a cookbook of Mexican-American recipes. Rather, this volume is part of a scholarly series devoted to Hispanic culture in the US. Stavans (Latin-American and Latino culture, Amherst College) introduces nine reprinted essays that discuss influences on variants of this popular ethnic cuisine including Tex-Mex and Cal- Mex; chiles' central role in this culture (by Like Water for Chocolate author Laura Esquivel); and the sensory knowledge of traditional cooks. Other contributions include a study of the prevention of obesity in Mexican-American youth, advice on cooking with traditional ingredients by a 19th century California chef, and observations on paleteros (ice-cream truck drivers) in Los Angeles. Annotation ©2011 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (booknews.com)